Big, Cheap, Ugly light fixture for the Master Bedroom

July 27, 2015 by Evan Hart in shopping, diy, salvage, lighting, electrical, decor

Yes, I know... it looks like something people put over their pool tables in the '70s. My friend Dan May, from Dan May estates said to Christina, "Do you have a game room?" since that probably seems like the only reason someone would want this fixture. It actually appears to be exactly the right size for the master bedroom. It makes about a 4.5' triangle shape

looking up pics of "'70s wrought iron light fixture" I noticed it was missing the shadehttps://retrophoria.com/seller/SANTACLARASTUDIO/2-Vintage-Wrought-Iron-and-Amber-Glass-Hanging-Lights/ — looking up pics of "'70s wrought iron light fixture" I noticed it was missing the shade
https://retrophoria.com/seller/SANTACLARASTUDIO/2-Vintage-Wrought-Iron-and-Amber-Glass-Hanging-Lights/

I discovered ours was missing the shade but decided to simply use large vanity globes and ignore the shade for the sake of simplicity.

I got the parts for the base that were missing in the Lamp Parts section of Ace Hardware. The brass thing on the left is just to cover a hole that was probably for a switch (hole on the right). The brass thing on the right is a finial (cap) and lamp nipple (threaded tube) to connect the base to the ceiling.

The paint was an awful "brown with hints of scratched gold" finish and it needs to be black to match the other black painted metal fixtures and our bed frame.

It's nice to have the lamp nipple (threaded tube) long enough so you can hold the fixture up while you wire it then tighten down the finial (decorative nut) when you're done.

I had to touch up the paint with the fixture up there because the chains move around as it settles into place. I had to give it a few shakes and wiggles to get it to sit as the chains and wires can bind together. — I had to touch up the paint with the fixture up there because the chains move around as it settles into place. I had to give it a few shakes and wiggles to get it to sit as the chains and wires can bind together.

The room is pretty dark with the gold curtains so I opted for 2 100W globes

I usually put in a light bulb after I connect the wires and turn on the light to make sure it's working. It also helps to know that the connections are solid while you tighten down the finial because you can see if the light starts flickering.

It looks pretty sweet like this but I'm going to put the glass back in because it goes with the yellow window glass and gold curtains.

Time to clean the glass

WOW this looks way better than I thought it would. It's the perfect size and shape and matches the curtains, windows and other lights I've added. $20 plus some small lamp parts, spray paint and light bulbs! Awesome.

Looks awesome with those curtains which have black fleur-de-lys rod ends

The glass behind the curtains is yellow too!

While that turned out an awesome success! I might have to bail on the candelabra I was building from scratch...

It even matches the laundry room light and this wall light I got for $10 that came with the Spanish gothic light fixtures I got for the living room

Master Closet Remodel

July 25, 2015 by Christina Flores in decor, diy

Since I work a 9-6 type of job, I don’t get to work on the bigger projects Evan is working on. I would also have close to no idea of how to even begin and execute most of them. But I have been working on some things, mainly in the master bedroom. The first project I started was the master closet. While the size and layout were ideal from the beginning, its physical condition was far from it. This closet was likely an addition made after the original house was built and a poorly built one. It is currently completely wrapped in plastic and tarps at the exterior.

Before these tarps were added, a bit a water made its way in the closet, causing a lot of the cabinetry to have water damage. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the inside of the closet showing the damage, but I did take on of the inside of one of the drawers. Most of the drawers were in this state so I had to do something to clean them up…

First, I cleaned them all with a wet rag and then primed both the inside and outside.

Second, I painted them with Behr zinser in "Swiss Coffee" color.

Then I lined the inside of them with wrapping paper that I got at Marshall’s for $3/roll (ended up using 1.5 rolls) by using Mod Podge (*link). These were the steps:

Measure the inside of the drawer and cut the wrapping paper to the measured dimensions
Line the bottom of the drawer with a layer of Mod Podge using a foam brush
Carefully place the cut paper on the Mod Podge. I tried sticking the middle of the paper first and then carefully setting it down inside to the outside to avoid air bubbles getting stuck under the paper. (I do need to practice this technique, but am still happy with the outcome.)
Add another layer of Mod Podge and let it dry (I waited a whole day)
Add one last layer of Mod Podge and let it dry

I also primed and painted both the inside and outside of the rest of the closet; doors, shelves, interior/exterior faces. This wasn’t so bad, but it did take awhile because I didn’t use tape to protect surfaces I didn’t want painted and free handed with a small brush (large faces were done with a roller).

Before painting or priming everything, I took off the existing wooden knobs because I knew I would want them replaced. I ended up choosing simple nickel knobs from Home Depot that cost $1.28/each.

Another update I made to the closet was adding a giant mirror from Home Depot to the vanity area. I love that it takes up the whole wall; it helps open up the room. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-48-in-x-36-in-Beveled-Framed-Wall-Mirror-901360/205186420 (check if correct mirror)

And 2 weeks later, my closet was done! I am very happy with how it turned out. I love that all of my clothing, shoes, accessories, etc. fit in one space together. In the past I’ve always had to use under bed storage bins and with this closet, that has been avoided.

Welding a modern chandelier for the M Bedroom

June 11, 2015 by Evan Hart in lighting, diy, decor

The master bedroom has a comically small light fixture.

When looking at chandeliers, I came across this light, which I thought would look good in the long master bedroom.

It was on Craigslist for $500 NIB from Restoration Hardware. Uhh no. I have a welder and know how to wire a lamp. It's on!

I decided I wanted it to be 18"x4' for some reason. 4' long and 4' tall seemed the right max size for the room. 18x48 inches would be 1.5'x4 or 3:8 ratio. Is that a good aesthetic ratio? We'll see:

This is a bad weld. It's sitting on top. You want better penetration.

I am NOT a good welder. But that's what the grinder is for.

You can see the line between the pieces where the weld can break again

Here's my lil welder setup. It's a Lincoln 125A "pro-sumer" welder with .035 flux core and the option to add gas. Mask is auto darkening from Harbor Freight. $40 but soo cool.

Even with my little easy welder, it's still hard to get it a good weld. The two knobs are simply amps and wire speed. There's a chart under the side flap of the welder that tells you what settings to use. It says flux core .035 should be set to current B and wire speed 1. That's low current and slow wire speed. You want the current and speed settings so that it makes a bead that melts into the metal a bit.

It's been a lot of trial and error, mainly due to crappy welds - they have to be ground down and then some crack and have to be re-welded and re-ground etc.

I want to hide the wire in the fixture. It's going to be hard to fish it through

This galvanized eyelet fit into the steel tubing nicely

It's pretty difficult to drill this material so I marked out the holes with a utility knife buy scratching an X so that the countersink bit would have something to sit into and start in the right place.

I added some decorative wires to echo the shape of the ceiling

It's coming along but certainly not going easy. It's been pretty hard to thread the holes for the "lamp nipples" with a tap (tapered thread cutter). Fortunately none of this needs to be super strong.

I started trying to fish the "lamp cord" 16-2 wire through. I thought it would simply want to bend and turn the corner if I pushed it but it was too limp. Then I tried to push bailing wire through the same way but it also was too limp. Christina suggested I get some pull chain because it would feed by gravity. She was right.